I’ve really liked the FT80x series of graphics chips, also called EVE. My main concern was that they only supported up to 512×512 pixels. That limitation prevented me from using it for 7″ displays. However, a few weeks ago the released a new generation consisting of four different versions: FT810, FT811, FT812 and FT813 ICs Among several updated features, they now support up to 800×600 pixels. Perfect match for 7″ displays. You can read more about it in the Press release.
I really want to take a closer look at this chip.
Some months ago I wrote about getting a 7″ capacitive touch LCD up’n running with Arduino. Since that time I’ve investigated 5″ displays with capacitive touch. There are some, such as the NHD-5.0-800480TF-ATXL#-CTP from Newhaven which uses the FT5306 capacitive touch controller. That one is interesting because I already have touch driver for the FT5x06 series. However, it costs $70.
A much cheaper alternative is i.e. the RA8875 based 5″ from BuyDisplay. It costs $35. Half the price. You can also buy separate touch panel to put on your own display for $8.50. The problem is that they use a Silead GSL1680 touch controller which is a bit tricky when it comes to writing drivers for it. Among other things it requires special firmware to work. I just gave up on it. That was until Tomek started the Has-anyone-tried-running-the-GSL16880-capacitive-touchscreen-controller-with-Teensy3 thread over at PJRC(Teensy) forum. January 14th, wolfmanjm got the buydisplay GSL1680 based board up’n running with a STM32L100 discovery board. He posted a video on youtube. After that it was tested on Teensy, and finally CosR1 managed to get it up’n running on an XMEGA AVR.
Continue reading 5″ capacitive touch panel with GSL1680 up’n running with arduino
I’ve had my concerns regarding connecting questionable home-made electronics to my PC through the USB port. How easy is it to kill the port ? I really don’t know. But it was one of the reasons why I wanted to isolate my prototypes from the PC. Another reason was to avoid noise problems while performing high precision measurements.
There might be other solutions out there but I quickly found a PCB created by Tom Keddie and available on Tindie. It’s a design based on ADUM3160. According to the datasheet “The ADuM3160 is a USB port isolator, based on Analog Devices, Inc., iCoupler® technology. Combining high speed CMOS and monolithic air core transformer technology, this isolation component provides outstanding performance characteristics and is easily integrated with low and full speed USB-compatible peripheral devices.“. It has an insulation rating of 2.5 kVrms and data speed rate of 1.5 Mbps to 12 Mbps.
I bought two PCB’s. Note that components are not included. The PCBs arrived quickly in a small envelope. A nice touch was to have it taped to a card saying “thanks”.
Continue reading USB isolator using ADUM3160
The guys over at MySensors are creating a big library for connecting typical sensors together. They have collected information for a lot of sensors, controllers and gateways added source code and instructions for them. For example Display and Time, Temperature and battery powering. They also compare prices between AliExpress and Ebay for typical sensors in the store. A lot of info to be found. Take a look.
It’s a bit tricky to understand what they’re aiming at first time you visit, but here are some quotes from their pages:
“Learn how to create your own low cost wireless sensors and connect them to the world.”
“We’ve combined the Arduino platform with a small radio transceiver into a fun, flexible world of low cost wireless sensors.”
“All the nitty-gritty details about the sensor communication has been packaged into a convenient software library so you don’t have to worry about them.”
The ESP8266 wifi modules are now coming in various versions, almost faster that anyone manages to update. Scargill’s Tech blog seems to be constantly (as of jan 2015) investigating and commenting the ESP8266 and ESP-x modules. Take a look in his ESP8266category.
The www.esp8266.com forum is, of course, still a good source of information.
Working with 2.4GHz tranceivers can be frustrating because you must know that the sender actually is sending and that the receiver is actually receiving. After that, you must be sure that the protocols match. To help with the first part, verifying that the sender is actually sending, I’ve combined RFToy with poor mans 2.4GHz scanner. I now have a battery driven device that can be used to see if my sender is sending. In addition, it will indicate approximate channel being used. I basically only modified the “poor mans 2.4GHz scanner” to use RFToy pins and display. The picture shows a snapshot of the scanner while turning on a Sony PS3 wireless controller. Code is on github.
Continue reading 2.4GHz scanner using RFToy
I just revisited Andy’s workshop after reading about his FPGA Sprite graphics accelerator. The FPGA article might not be direct relevant for my weatherstation project. However, there are a lot of other interesting articles there i.e. about reverse engineering of phone displays such as Vivaz and LG KF700. Might be worth a look.
I’ve been thinking about controlling my weatherstation UI without touching the screen. I’ve even ordered the VCLN4020 and planned to write arduino code for it. But now it looks like the apds-9960 is a better candicate because Sparkfun has a breakout board, code and tutorial ready for it. There are other alternatives, some are listed in the touchless gesture control section.
I just read about DFRobots WiDo, an Arduino compatible WIFI IoT Node based on ATmega32u4 and WG1300. Price is $30. Maybe one of the easier ways into wifi on arduino, at an acceptable price.
After examining RFToy, I came across this BridgeDuino prototype by Hazim Bitar. According to him it “is a Swiss army knife PCB for rapid networking of inexpensive wireless communication modules”. It currently supports:
IR Transmiter LED 940nm
IR Receive 38Khz
RF433Mhz FS1000A Transmitter
Bluetooth HC-06 & HC-05
Its open hardware and open source. It can be used as an Arduino shield or separately with an Arduino Pro Mini in a socket.